Action Directe (climb)

Action Directe

The route follows five bolts which are visible on the photo (quickdraws are clipped to the fourth and fifth bolt) and ends with the belay anchor (not visible). The next bolted route to the right, Feiste Fäuste, follows the overhanging crack and is much easier (grade IX).
Location Frankenjura, Germany
Coordinates 49°38′04″N 11°36′09″E / 49.63444°N 11.60250°E / 49.63444; 11.60250Coordinates: 49°38′04″N 11°36′09″E / 49.63444°N 11.60250°E / 49.63444; 11.60250
Climbing Area Krottenseer Forst (crag Waldkopf)
Route Type Sport Climb
Rating 9a (French) or XI (UIAA)
First free ascent Wolfgang Güllich, 1991.

Action Directe is a famously difficult sport climb in the Frankenjura, Germany.

While being generally recognized as the world's first 9a (5.14d), Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA grade of XI. It was the first recognised route of the grade, and is considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It is also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off single-finger pockets. Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board to train the very specific strength needed for this route.

History

Milan Sykora bolted this line in the 80's with a start from the neighboring line to the right. The first ascent (FA) was by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, who climbed the route using a 16 move sequence and a more direct start with a dynamic jump into a two-finger pocket. Dai Koyamada used a different sequence with only 11 moves.

Ascents

The repeat ascents were by:

References

  1. ↑ UKClimbing Editorial Team (Dec 16, 2010). "Rich Simpson - UKC's Position". Retrieved December 19, 2010.
  2. ↑ Wojciech Słowakiewicz (Oct 10, 2010). "Action Directe by Adam Pustelnik!". Serwis Wspinaczkowy wspinanie.pl. Archived from the original on 15 October 2010. Retrieved October 12, 2010.
  3. ↑ "Felix Knaub hat "Action directe" (11) im Frankenjura geklettert". Retrieved November 23, 2011.
  4. ↑ PlanetMountain (May 6, 2014). "Alexander Megos, the Action Directe Frankenjura interview". Retrieved May 6, 2014.
  5. ↑ ClimbingNews (May 26, 2015). "Felix Neumärker Repeats Two 9a's in Three Days". Retrieved May 26, 2015.
  6. ↑ Toni Lonobile for Wildclimb (June 27, 2015). "Interview of Julius Westphal!". Retrieved June 27, 2015.

External links

INTERVIEWS

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