Beth Rodden

Beth Rodden
Personal information
Born (1980-04-05) April 5, 1980
San Francisco, California
Occupation Rock climber
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade

Beth Rodden (born May 5, 1980) is an American rock climber. She was the youngest woman to climb 5.14a (8b+), and is one of the only women in the world to have redpointed a 5.14c (8c+) traditional climb. She lives near Yosemite, California. Rodden and Tommy Caldwell met at a junior climbing competition in 1995 and were married in 2003. They divorced in 2010. In 2014, she had a son with husband Randy Puro.[1]

Climbing career

Rodden started climbing in 1995 at The Rocknasium, a local climbing gym in Davis, California. She won the Junior National JCCA Championships in 1996, 1997, and 1998; ranked first overall in the ASCF adult national series in 1997 and 1998; and placed third at the ASCF Fall Nationals in 1998.[2]

In 1998 Rodden redpointed the sport route To Bolt Or Not To Be, the historical first 5.14 established in America, and became the youngest woman to ascend 5.14a. Her work impressed free climbing pioneer Lynn Hill, who invited Rodden to make the first all-female ascent of Madagascar's Tsaranoro Massif in 1999. The trip to Madagascar marked Rodden's move to a less mainstream trad climbing career.[3] In 2000, she put up the first free ascent of Lurking Fear with Tommy Caldwell, marking El Capitan's second free ascent by a woman.[3] With Lurking Fear and her 2005 free ascent of The Nose, she became the first woman to free climb two routes on El Capitan. In October 2005 she free-climbed The Optimist, becoming the first American woman to redpoint 5.14b. [4] In 2006, Beth and husband Tommy Caldwell, competed in the 2006 Triple Crown Bouldering Series to raise money for climber's access.[5] In February 2008, Rodden redpointed the first ascent of Meltdown. A proposed grade of 5.14c makes Meltdown the hardest climb in Yosemite, the hardest traditional pitch in America, the hardest first ascent by an American woman, and hardest traditional route led or established by a woman.

Hostage in Kyrgyzstan

On a climbing trip to Kyrgyzstan's Kara Su Valley in August 2000, Rodden, then-boyfriend Tommy Caldwell, and fellow climbers, Jason "Singer" Smith and photographer John Dickey were held hostage for six days by rebels from the Islamic Movement of Uzbekistan.[6] The four climbers overpowered one of their captors and escaped to a Kyrgyz army camp. The climbers were held captive for six days and nights. The ordeal finally ended when Tommy Caldwell pushed one guard captor off of the edge of the cliff. At midnight on Aug. 18, the commander left them all to search for batteries for the radio as well as food, leaving only one guard, Usuph, to watch the four captives. All four climbers attest to the incident that Usuph was pushed off that cliff. They learnt later that Usuph survived . A press aide to the Kyrgyz president, Mycaev Aibek, believes the climbers' account of this incident to be true. About the decision to take that life, Beth quotes "It's so hard to think about that now, but we were afraid we wouldn't survive".[7] Their story was a brief sensation for the American media.[8]

Rodden's climbing suffered and she did not travel internationally for a year. Then in October 2001 she climbed El Capitan in an Americares event to raise money for the families of 9/11 rescue personnel. She returned to the top tier of rock climbing, onsighting Phoenix, a 5.13a crack in Yosemite, in May 2002.

Notable ascents

Filmography

See also

References

  1. ↑ http://blog.bethrodden.com/2014/06/climbing-pregnant-month-9-letting-go.html
  2. ↑ Heidi, Haas. "Beth Rodden". Women Climbing. Retrieved 2007-05-13.
  3. 1 2 3 Kate, Sibler (2005). Schaffer, Grayson, ed. Outside's Faces: The 25 Greatest Athletes Now. Outside's Bookazine Classics. pp. 32–35.
  4. ↑ Joost (2007-02-18). "Emily Harrington climbs 5.14b (8c)". climbing.nl. Retrieved 2007-05-13.
  5. ↑ http://www.prweb.com/releases/marmot/rock_creek_outfitters/prweb481491.htm
  6. ↑ Child, Greg (November 2000). "Special Reports: Fear of Falling". Outside Magazine. Retrieved 2007-05-13.
  7. ↑ Rogers, Patrick, Maureen Harrington, and Eileen Finan. "His Life Or Theirs." People 54.11 (2000): 97. Academic Search Complete. Web. 3 May 2012.
  8. ↑ Child, Greg (April 2, 2002). Over the Edge: The True Story of Four American Climbers' Kidnap and Escape in the Mountains of Central Asia. Villard, Random House Publishing Group. ISBN 0-375-50609-8.
  9. ↑ "Live It Up". Outside Magazine. Mariah Media Inc. January 2006. Retrieved 2007-05-13.
  10. ↑ Stanley, Matt (3 August 2000). "High Points: Lurking Free". MountainZone.com. MountainZone.com. Retrieved 2007-05-13.
  11. 1 2 Cummins, Clint; Jim Herson; Jeff Schoen; Mark Hudon (March 2006). Cummins, Clint, ed. "Yosemite - Long Hard Free Climbs". stanford.edu. Retrieved 2007-05-13.
  12. ↑ "Micro Managing". Rock & Ice (128): 29. October 2003. Retrieved 2010-11-29.
  13. ↑ Schmidt, David (December 2005). "Hot Flashes: Rodden Redpoints Anaconda". Climbing. Primedia (224). Retrieved 2007-05-13.
  14. ↑ MacDonald, Dougald. "Caldwell-Rodden Free the Nose". Climbing. Retrieved 2007-05-06.
  15. ↑ Wright, Cedar. "Yosemite Valley: Various Activity". Alpinist. Retrieved 2007-05-06.

External links

This article is issued from Wikipedia - version of the 11/1/2016. The text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution/Share Alike but additional terms may apply for the media files.