Edward Sexton
| Edward Sexton | |
|---|---|
| Born |
November 9, 1942 Dagenham, London |
| Education | English Martyrs School |
| Occupation | Savile Row tailor, fashion designer, |
| Labels | Savile Row, Tommy Nutter, Stella McCartney, Chloe |
Edward Sexton (born 9 November 1942 in Dagenham, Essex) is a British Savile Row tailor, fashion designer and manufacturing consultant. Sexton has been called a key player in the history of Savile Row.[1]
Early life
Edward Sexton went to English Martyrs School (in Southwark) from 1953–1957. Leaving school, Sexton went to work at Lew Rose (in 1957), a suit manufacturing factory in East London, where he received his initial training. Lew Rose operated a section production system; Sexton progressed around each section developing basic tailoring skills.
In 1959, Sexton went to work as an apprentice for Jerry Vanderstine, a coat maker who worked for Harry Hall (specialist equestrian tailor on Regent Street, London). In 1959 John Oates, the head cutter at Harry Hall, then asked Sexton to come and work as an assistant cutter and trimmer. In 1961 Sexton worked at Cyril A. Castle, a celebrity tailor, as an assistant jacket-cutter and trouser-cutter. While working at Cyril A. Castle, Sexton got his first position of responsibility on the cutting board and put himself through a pattern cutting course at Burner Street Technical College (later to become part of the London College of Fashion).
In 1962, Sexton moved to Kilgour French and Stanbury,[2] where he finished his training. In 1966 Sexton got his first job as a fully-fledged cutter at (military tailor) Welsh and Jefferies,[3] where he honed his skills cutting both military and civilian tailoring. Sexton made trips to Royal Military Academy Sandhurst to make uniforms for officers passing. Sexton believed this experience proved invaluable to the work he would later produce.
Nutters of Savile Row
In 1967 Sexton went to work as a cutter for Donaldson, Williams and Ward, where he met the young salesman Tommy Nutter.[4] Nutter quickly recognised Sexton’s talent and they started working together for private clients. Through this work they began to develop a style (a waisted and flared jacket with wide lapels and parallel trousers) which was to evolve over the years. Nutter was very handsome and always impeccably dressed, and quickly drew clients from his social circle, which was growing in size and influence.
On 14 February 1969, Edward Sexton and Tommy Nutter opened Nutters of Savile Row at No. 35a Savile Row,[5] with the backing of Cilla Black, Bobby Willis, James Vallance White and Peter Brown (music industry).[6] This was the first new Savile Row establishment in 120 years. Nutter was the creative force and front of house focus, while Sexton was a traditional bespoke master cutter who created the garments.[7] It has been said that “Sexton was the genius behind Nutters.”[1] In 1976 Tommy left Nutters of Savile Row[8] and Sexton became managing director.[9]
Sexton remained managing director [2] until 1982, when he moved from 35a to 36-37 Savile Row and changed the name of the business to Edward Sexton.
Leaving Savile Row
In 1990 Sexton left Savile Row to set up in Knightsbridge,[10] alongside couturiers Caroline Charles[11] and Bruce Oldfield[12] . Sexton continues to operate, by appointment only, from a studio on Beauchamp Place, producing bespoke tailoring for both men and women. Bespoke shirts and an exclusive selection of accessories for his customers offer a complete Sexton 'look'.
Consultancy and Collaborations
Wilks Bashford
From 1987 Sexton produced a collaborative range for Wilks Bashford in San Francisco.[13]
'Poor Little Rich Girl'
Sexton made the costumes for the $12million NBC production of Poor Little Rich Girl (The Barbara Hutton Story).[14] Sexton dressed many of the husbands in the film including James Read as Cary Grant and Anthony Peck, as well as Farrah Fawcett [15]
Saks Fifth Avenue ready to wear
In September 1988 Sexton created an exclusive line for Saks Fifth Avenue of made to measure suits and ready to wear tailoring: shirts, ties, socks, canes, hats, pocket squares and ascots.[16]
Stella McCartney and Chloe
In 1995, while studying at Central St. Martins, Stella served an apprentiship with Sexton,[17] who was her father’s tailor. Sexton helped Stella develop her graduate show that was modelled by Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Yasmin Le Bon[18] The show made front-page news, and the entire collection was sold to Tokio, a London boutique. In 1997, when Stella took over from Karl Lagerfeld, as creative director she “relied on”[19] Sexton to create her first Paris collection. Sexton worked for Chloe as a consultant and continued tutoring Stella in cutting, design, fabric selection and tailoring. In 1999 Sexton refused to renew his contract with Chloe, so he could spend more time in London seeing the bespoke clients he had been neglecting.[20] The fashion industry did not credit Stella for the initial success of Chloe, but instead acknowledged Sexton's contributions.[20]
Petra Ecclestone Form Clothing
In 2007 Bernie Eccleston showed Sexton designs by his 18year old daughter Petra. Sexton was impressed, and the two started working together.[21]
Famous Outfits
In the interests of their privacy, Sexton does not like to discuss his clients. Notable clients include:
| Client | Profession | Most notable clothes made by Edward Sexton |
|---|---|---|
| Annie Lennox[22] | Musician | Suit worn in Full Steam video |
| Bernie Ecclestone[23] | Head of Formula One Management | Three piece suits |
| Bianca Jagger[3] | Iconic White Suit | |
| David Gray[24] | Musician | Suit worn in Full Steam video |
| John Lennon[24] | Musician | Suit worn on Abbey Road album cover |
| Marie Helvin[25] | Model | |
| Mark Ronson[26] | Musician | White wedding suit |
| Sir Paul McCartney[24] | Musician | Suit worn on The Abbey Road album cover |
| Pete Doherty[24] | Musician | Suit worn on the English Rose music video |
| Ringo Starr[27] | Musician | Tweed suit worn in Vogue |
| Twiggy[3] | Model | Cherry red velvet suit |
| Yoko Ono[3] | White jump suit |
References
- 1 2 "Savile Row Documentary". Video. BBC. Retrieved 29 June 2011.
- 1 2 Kerr, Susan (March 1998). "Pattern of Success". Millionaire. Retrieved 29 June 2011.
- 1 2 3 4 Ford, James Sherwood ; with photography by Guy Hills ; foreword by Tom (2010). Savile Row : the master tailors of British bespoke. London: Thames & Hudson. pp. 216–220. ISBN 978-0-500-51524-2.
- ↑ "Daily Mail". Daily Mail. 20 January 1970. Retrieved 28 June 2011.
- ↑ "An Historical Occasion, Nutter's Open Their Doors - and Cilla meets the Row". Tailor and Cutter. 21 February 1969. Retrieved 30 June 2011.
- ↑ "Fashion and Textile Museum". Ftmlondon.org. 2011-01-31. Retrieved 2011-02-11.
- ↑ Sherwood, James (2007), The London Cut: Savile Row Bespoke Tailoring, Marsilio, Italy, ISBN 978-88-317-9155-7
- ↑ Stuart, Husband (5 March 2006). "Rock on Tommy". The Sun. Retrieved 29 June 2011.
- ↑ Iain, Finlayston (July–August 1978). "The world Meets at Nutters". Tatler. Retrieved 29 June 2011.
- ↑ Sherwood, James (30 April 2007). "Sexton Appeal". The Independent.
- ↑ "Caroline Charles Website". Company website. Retrieved 23 November 2011.
- ↑ "Bruce Oldfield Website". Company Website. Retrieved 23 November 2011.
- ↑ New York Times. 5 April 1987. Missing or empty
|title=(help); - ↑ Mens Wear. 7 May 1987. Missing or empty
|title=(help); - ↑ Rocky Mountain News. 14 May 1987. Missing or empty
|title=(help); - ↑ Daily News Record. 23 June 1988. Missing or empty
|title=(help); - ↑ Readers Digest. January 1999. Missing or empty
|title=(help); - ↑ The Daily Mail. 7 December 1996. Missing or empty
|title=(help); - ↑ The Express. 2 October 1997. Missing or empty
|title=(help); - 1 2 The Mail on Sunday. 10 October 1999. Missing or empty
|title=(help); - ↑ Slater, Lyndia (9 October 2009). "Driving Force". London Evening Standard. Retrieved 7 July 2011.
- ↑ Drew, William (30 March 2010). "Women of The Cloth". The Times. Retrieved 23 November 2011.
- ↑ Harries, Rhiannon (26 October 2010). "How we met". The inderpendent.
- 1 2 3 4 Brooke, Simon (30 January 2010). "Rock and Row". Financial Times.
- ↑ Jardine, Cassandra (3 October 2007). "I Know I'm too thin. It's the adrinaline...". The Daily Telegraph.
- ↑ Benjamin, Laura (19 September 2011). "The Happiness Clear To See". Hello. Retrieved 23 November 2011.
- ↑ Vogue. May 1974. Missing or empty
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