Riccardo Tisci

Riccardo Tisci
Born (1974-08-01) 1 August 1974
Taranto, Italy
Nationality Italian
Education Art and Design Central Saint Martins
Occupation Fashion designer
Religion Catholicism
Labels Givenchy

Riccardo Tisci (Italian pronunciation: [rikˈkardo ˈtiʃʃi]; born 1974 in Taranto, Italy)[1][2] is an Italian fashion designer. He studied in Italy at the Design Istituto d’Arte Applicata in Cantu until the age of 17, and then graduated from London's Central Saint Martins Academy in 1999. In 2005, Tisci was given the title of Creative Director for Givenchy Women's haute couture and ready-to-wear lines. In May 2008 he was additionally named as menswear and accessories designer of the Givenchy men's division.

Tisci's apparent fascination with Gothic touches (dark, languid dresses for fall couture) and space-age minimalism (one ready-to-wear show featured white-clad models drifting around a sterile-white sphere) has drawn new attention to the Givenchy brand. Reviews and output so far have been mixed and inconsistent, but many, including influential fashion critics (such as Cathy Horyn of The New York Times and Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune) have homed in on Tisci's conceptual leanings, as well as his future potential for revitalizing the Givenchy brand and infusing it with his precision and imagination.

Biography

After graduating from London's Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in 1999, Tisci worked for a succession of companies such as Puma and Coccapani before signing a three-year contract with Ruffo Research, a company that has helped launch the careers of several fashion designers, such as Sophia Kokosalaki. Tisci has mentioned in an interview that he would like to work with an Iranian brand, although it is not known how realistic his wish is.[3]

Upon the expiration of his contract in July 2004, Tisci spent time living in India, where he began to work on his own collection. In September 2004, during the Milan Fashion Week, Tisci debuted his first Riccardo Tisci Collection for Fall 2005/2006 in an off-calendar show. Tisci’s line generated considerable attention, and shortly thereafter, he was appointed by Givenchy to the position of creative director and made the following statement "I am delighted to join Givenchy and very proud to be able to bring my vision to this prestigious French haute couture house, whose history inspires me."[3]

Appointment to Givenchy

On 28 February 2005 Riccardo Tisci was appointed as the creative director of the Haute Couture, ready-to-wear and accessories lines for Givenchy.[4] Brought to Givenchy by Group MD Antonio Belloni and Givenchy CEO Marco Gobbetti, the Givenchy boss himself spoke of Tisci's appointment as being a "perfect fit for us". Gobbetti adds, "He [Tisci] has an elegance that is very modern, very contemporary and romantic at the same time".

Riccardo Tisci presented his first Givenchy Haute Couture Collection in July 2005 during the Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris.[5]

Style

Unlike the various designers before him who succeeded Mr. Givenchy himself, Tisci has had particular success in the realm of Haute Couture, where he asserts "When I arrived we had five customers. Now we have 29."[6] Riccardo Tisci's runway presentations are highly stylized in terms of architecture and space. Tisci says of this; "My way of showing is very melancholic... I love romanticism and sensuality".[6]

After three years leading Givenchy’s women’s collections, in 2008 Tisci was additionally given the role of Creative Director for the Men’s Ready to Wear and Accessories Collections.

Tisci, under Givenchy, designed the costumes for Madonna's Sticky & Sweet Tour in 2008, following Jean Paul Gaultier and Dolce & Gabbana. In 2009, for the encore of the tour he designed another costume for the tour's opening song Candy Shop. He also delivered customized clothing for Madonna when she's not on stage.

For the Givenchy Fall-Winter 2010 collection,[7] he included a new model, Lea T, who is a transexual from Brazil. T, whose former name was Leo, was his longtime personal assistant.

In 2011, Tisci was widely considered to be John Galliano's most likely successor as head designer of Christian Dior;[8] however, in 2012 Raf Simons was announced as Galliano's replacement as creative director.[9]

The international CFDA prize was awarded to Riccardo Tisci for his contribution to the fashion world. During the ceremony, actress Jessica Chastain went on stage to award him his prize.

In May 2013, Riccardo Tisci sponsored the exhibit “PUNK : Chaos to couture” from the New York MET’s Costume Institute.

Collaborations

Throughout his career, Tisci’s numerous connections and relationships have enabled him to collaborate with well-known artists on various projects:

In addition to his position at Givenchy, Tisci has collaborated with the choreographers Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui and Damien Jalet on the costume design of the orchestral ballet Boléro by Maurice Ravel at the Opéra Garnier.

Italian Model Mariacarla Boscono often appears in his runway shows and ad campaigns, owing possibly to the fact that Tisci has had a friendship with her since before his days at Givenchy. Tisci also collaborated with American rappers Jay-Z and Kanye West to create the cover for Watch the Throne, as well as the covers for singles H•A•M and Otis. He has now recently collaborated again with Kanye West for his label GOOD Music on their album Cruel Summer.

References

  1. ↑ "Givenchy Fashion Shows: Designer Directory on". Style.com. Archived from the original on December 12, 2008. Retrieved 2012-01-09.
  2. ↑ "Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell e le altre: parata di star al compleanno di Riccardo Tisci". oggi.it. Archived from the original on August 10, 2014. Retrieved 2015-04-30.
  3. 1 2 "The New Man at Givenchy". Vogue. UK edition. 1 March 2005. Archived from the original on 10 February 2007.
  4. ↑ http://www.givenchy.com
  5. ↑ The new man at Givenchy March 1st 2005, Vogue.co.uk
  6. 1 2 http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2007/02/28/the-q-a-riccardo-tisci/ New York Times
  7. ↑ "Tisci's Trans Europe Express... Fashionair Paused". Wwd.com. 2010-05-07. Retrieved 2012-01-09.
  8. ↑ Maysa Rawi (2011-09-03). "Riccardo Tisci leaves Givenchy to replace John Galliano as new Dior designer | Mail Online". London: Dailymail.co.uk. Retrieved 2012-01-09.
  9. ↑ Wendlandt, Astrid (2011-03-31). "Dior taking its time to replace Galliano". Reuters. Retrieved 2012-01-09.
  10. ↑ Cristobal, Sarah (2016-04-18). "Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci Designs for Nike". Wall Street Journal. ISSN 0099-9660. Retrieved 2016-04-27.
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