Roman jewelry

Ancient Roman jewelry was characterized by an interest in colored gemstones and glass, contrasting with Greek predecessors, which focused primarily on the production of high-quality metalwork by practiced artisans.^[1] Various types of jewelry were worn by different genders and social classes in Rome, and were used both for aesthetic purposes and to communicate social messages of status and wealth.

A typical Roman necklace made of gold and carnelian stone.

Materials and Style

While much emphasis is placed on fine gold and silver pieces of antiquated jewelry, many pieces worn by lower social classes in Rome would have been made out of bronze or other less expensive metals. Gold and silver pieces would have been worn by the wealthy. Unlike ancient Greek jewelers, Roman manufacturers would have dealt primarily with mass-produced pieces created using molds and casting techniques.^[2] This allowed more people to afford such accessories.

Roman aesthetic values led to the increased use of precious and semi-precious gemstones as well as colored glass in jewelry. Ostentatious and creative use of color was valued over fine metalwork. Glass makers were supposedly so skilled that they could fool the public into thinking that glass beads and ornaments were actually gemstones.^[3] When genuine gems were utilized, the stones preferred by Roman women were amethyst, emerald, and pearl.^[4]

Social Implications

The focus on showiness and imitation of fine materials demonstrates the fact that Romans were highly conscious of how they presented themselves in public.^[1] While living, Roman men and women frequently used ornamentation of their houses and bodies to demonstrate wealth, power, influence, and knowledge.

A bronze fibula.

Gender

As with many societies, ancient Roman accessorizing varied along boundaries of gender and age, in addition to social standing.

Women

Roman women collected and wore more jewelry than men. Women usually had pierced ears, in which they would wear one set of earrings. Additionally, they would adorn themselves with necklaces, bracelets, rings, and fibulae. One choker-style necklace, two bracelets, and multiple rings would be worn at once. Jewelry was particularly important to women because it was considered to be their own property, which could be kept independently of their husband's wealth and used as the women saw fit. They had the right to buy, sell, bequeath, or barter their own jewelry.^[4]

Men

Typically Roman men wore less jewelry than their female counterparts. Finger rings and fibulae were the most common forms of jewelry worn by men, but they would also sometimes wear pendants. Roman men, unlike Greek men, wore multiple rings at once.^[4]

Children

Roman children's jewelry served special purposes, especially in the form of amulets. These were worn draped around the neck, and had specialized purposes to protect the children from illness and misfortune.^[4] For example, a phallic fascinus was commonly placed on or near a young boy to ward off the evil forces.

Beyond Accessories

Collections of jewelry represented great wealth and power to the Roman owners. The use of this jewelry was not limited to simply wearing it, but also extended to spiritual purposes. Hoards of gold, silver, and bronze jewelry have been found at Greek and Roman temples, providing evidence that worshipers would have offered some of their jewelry to the god or goddess of the temple, much as they would have offered other objects.^[4]

References

1. Richter, Gisela M. A. (1921). "Classical Accessions: II. Jewelry". The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin. JSTOR 3254888.
2. Liu, Robert K. (1979). "Ancient jewelry molds". Ornament.
3. Richter, Gisela M.A. (1914). "Department of Classical Art Accessions of 1913: Jewelry and Glass". The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin. JSTOR 3253734.
4. Gagarin, Michael (2010). The Oxford Encyclopedia of Ancient Greece and Rome. Oxford University Press.