Takashi Ozaki

Ozaki summited Everest in 1980 via the north face

Takashi Ozaki (尾崎隆 Ozaki Takashi, September 9, 1952 – May 12, 2011 (aged 58)) was a Japanese mountaineer. He is known for having made the first ascent of Mount Everest's north face and the first ascent of Myanmar's Hkakabo Razi.

Biography

Dhaulagiri

Ozaki was born Kameyama in Japan's Mie Prefecture.

On May 10, 1980 Ozaki, with Tsuneo Shigehiro, made the first full ascent of the north face of Mount Everest.^[1] Later, in 1983, he made a December ascent of Everest.^[2]

In 1996, Ozaki made the first ascent of Myanmar's remote Hkakabo Razi with Myanmar climber Niyma Gyaltsen.^[3]

Ozaki died while descending Everest's south side at around 8600 meters.^[4] He had to abort his ascent when he developed medical problems, then died during his attempt to summit Mount Everest in May 2011.^[4] He is reported to have died on May 12, 2011.^[4]

Family

Takashi Ozaki was married to Frederique Gely-Ozaki, who also climbed mountains with him.^[3] He had two children.^[3]

Mountaineering achievements

Manaslu

Summits:^[4]

• Everest (2x, 1980 and 1983)
• Broad Peak
• Manaslu
• Lhotse
• Kangchenjunga
• Makalu
• Dhaulagiri
• Island Peak
• Hkakabo Razi^[3]

Makalu at sunset

See also

• List of people who died climbing Mount Everest
• List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit
• List of 20th-century summiters of Mount Everest

References

1. Messner, Reinhold (1989). The Crystal Horizon: Everest-The First Solo Ascent. Mountaineers Books. p. 90. ISBN 9780898865745.
2. "EverestHistory.com: Takashi Ozaki". Retrieved 2015-08-16.
3. Brookes, Stephen (1996-10-08). "First Ascent: Ozaki Summits Burma's Highest Peak".
4. "The butterfly collector is gone: Takashi Ozaki claimed by Everest". Retrieved 2015-08-15.