Dunajec river castles

The Dunajec river castles is a chain of thirteen medieval castles (some of which do not exist any longer), built in southern Lesser Poland, along the Dunajec river. The castles protected the border between the Kingdom of Poland and the Kingdom of Hungary, as well as a very important international merchant route, which went along the Dunajec and the Poprad. Most of the castles are in ruin now, some of them do not exist any longer. Their history of most castles dates back to the period known as fragmentation of Poland (early 12th century), when, following the Testament of Bolesław III Wrymouth the country was divided into several provinces. The Dunajec river castles were located on the territory of two castellanies, Wojnicz and Nowy Sącz, in extreme south of the Seniorate Province.^[1]

The castles

Wielka Wies – Trzewlin Castle (ruin)

Construction of this castle began in the early 14th century, and was initiated by the Białon family (Rawa coat of arms), which later changed its last name to Trzewliński. In the 15th century, the castle belonged to the Wielowieyski family (Półkozic coat of arms). According to a 19th-century historian and etnographer Zegota Pauli, in 1543 the Trzewlin Castle was visited by King Sigismund I the Old, and his wife Bona Sforza, to escape an epidemic. It is not known when the castle was abandoned. Most likely, it was destroyed during the Swedish invasion of Poland (1655–1660), and in the late 17th century, its walls were pulled down by the residents of Wojnicz.^[2] Currently, all that remains are a dry moat, and small pieces of walls.

The Trzewlin Castle was located on a hill called Panieńska Gora, on the left bank of the Dunajec, 120 meters above the bottom of the river valley. The complex consisted of three parts - the upper castle (square-shaped, with measurements 40 by 40 meters), the lower castle (triangular shaped), and a round fortified settlement (borough), separated from both castles by a moat. The ruins are some 12 kilometers southwest of Tarnów, and 3 kilometers south of Wojnicz.

Melsztyn – Melsztyn Castle (ruin)

Construction of the Melsztyn Castle was initiated in 1340, by the castellan of Kraków, Spicymir (Leliwa coat of arms).^[3] In 1362, Bishop Bodzanta blessed the Holy Spirit chapel at the castle. The complex for 200 years remained in the hands of the powerful noble family of Leliwita Melsztyński (see Spytek of Melsztyn), which in the late 14th century built a Gothic keep, located in the western wing of the castle. In the 15th century, Melsztyn was one of centers of Polish Hussite movement, and in 1511, Jan Melsztyński sold it to the castellan of Wiślica, Mikołaj Jordan of Myślenice. In ca. 1546, Spytek Jordan ordered remodeling of the Gothic complex, turning it into a Renaissance residence. After the marriages of his two daughters, Melsztyn became the property of the Tarło family, and in 1744, it came into the hands of the Lanckoroński family.

Ruins of the Melsztyn Castle

Melsztyn Castle was destroyed by the Russians in 1771, during the Bar Confederation, and has been a ruin since then. In 1789–1796, parts of the complex were pulled down, in order to gain building materials for a church at Domosławice. In the following years, the complex was neglected, which resulted in collapse of the keep (1846). In 1879-85, due to the efforts of Karol Lanckoroński, the castle gained the status of a permanent, protected ruin. Since 2008, it belongs to the gmina of Zakliczyn. The castle has been presented in paintings of Jan Matejko, Napoleon Orda, and Maciej Bogusz Steczyński.

Melsztyn Castle is located near regional road nr. 980, which goes from Nowy Sącz to Tarnow.

Czchów – Czchów Castle (ruin)

Ruins of the Czchów Castle

The history of the Czchów Castle dates back to the 13th century, when a Romanesque watchtower was built here. In the 14th century, a defensive castle was added to the tower. It became the residence of the Czchów starostas, and was destroyed in the Swedish wars of the mid-17th century (see Deluge. Finally, the castle lost its military importance, and was turned into a prison, which was closed in 1772, after the first partition of Poland. Currently, the only remaining parts of the complex are a 14th-century tower and foundations of the defensive wall. The tower is open to visitors from May 1 until October 31, entrance fee is 3 zlotys.^[4]

Wytrzyszczka – Tropsztyn Castle (reconstructed)

The Tropsztyn Castle was probably built in the early 13th century by the Ośmioróg family. It was first mentioned in 1231, and remained in the hands of the family for 300 years. In 1535, following a royal order, Tropsztyn was handed to the castellan of Sandomierz, Piotr Kmita. Some time in the second half of the 16th century, it probably became the seat of highwaymen, as it was partially destroyed in 1574 by the owners of Rożnów, due to the “assaults, organized from the castle”.^[5] By 1608, Tropsztyn, which belonged to the Zborowski family, already was described as a ruin.

Tropsztyn Castle

First archaeological works were carried out here in 1863 by a Nowy Sącz historian Szczęsny Morawski. In 1970, it was purchased by Andrzej Benesz, and Tropsztyn was reconstructed in 1993. Now the castle is open to visitors in July and August. According to a legend, an Inca treasure is hidden somewhere in Tropsztyn, as its late 18th century owner, Sebastian Berzewiczy, went to Spanish Peru, where he married an Incan princess, and his ancestors returned to Poland with the treasure.

Rożnów – Rożnów Castle (reconstructed)

The Rożnów Castle, located 20 kilometers north of Nowy Sącz, is a complex of defensive objects, consisting of a medieval “upper castle” and Renaissance fortifications (“lower castle”). Its history dates back to the 13th century, when the Gryfita family built here a watchtower. The castle itself was probably built in 1350–1370 by Piotr Rozen (Gryf coat of arms).^[6] It is in the shape of a rectangle, 44 meters by 20 meters. In 1426, the castle was purchased by one of the most famous Polish knights, Zawisza Czarny, and after his death, it remained in the hands of Zawisza’s sons. In the late 15th century, Rożnów belonged to the Wydźga family, and later, to the Tarnowski family.

Rożnów Castle

In the first half of the 16th century, during the Polish Golden Age, Hetman Jan Tarnowski began the construction of a fortress at Rożnów. It was planned to become one of the strongest and most modern fortresses in the Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth, guarding southern border of the nation against the Ottoman Empire, which, after the Battle of Mohács emerged as the dominant state in Southeastern Europe. Tarnowski’s death in 1561 put an end to these plans, and the construction was never completed.

Gródek nad Dunajcem – Gródek nad Dunajcem Castle (does not exist)

The Gródek nad Dunajcem Castle was probably built in the early 14th century by a man named Klemens de Gródek, on the Grodzisko Hill in the village of Gródek nad Dunajcem. The complex was destroyed either in late 14th or early 15th century, its ruins were visible as late as early 20th century. Currently, no traces remain of the castle, and the Grodzisko Hill is an island (called Monkey Island) on the Rożnowskie Lake.^[7]

Kurów – Kurowska Góra Hill Castle (does not exist)

In 1308, the Kurowska Góra Castle was noted as Curow castrum, and later was described by Jan Długosz. For some time, the complex probably was property of Bishop Jan Muskata. Little is known about the complex, which was located in the village of Kurów; in some sources it is called the Lemiesz Castle.^[8]

Nowy Sącz – Royal Castle

Nowy Sącz Castle

For more information, see Nowy Sącz Castle

Zabrzeż – Zabrzeż Castle (does not exist)

This medieval castle was located in the village of Zabrzeż, near Nowy Sącz, on the left bank of the Kamienica river, near its confluence with the Dunajec, 84 meters above the bed of the valley. In ancient times, a Lusatian culture gord existed here, and in the 13th century, a small defensive castle was built. The complex was made from stone, in a circular shape with the circumference of some 30 meters. What remains now is traces of its moat. Historians have been unable to establish the owners of the castle, as there are very few documents. The village of Zabrzez itself was first mentioned in 1312. Furthermore, it is not known when the castle was destroyed, and by whom. Remains of the walls were still visible in the early 20th century.^[9]

Krościenko nad Dunajcem – Pieniny Castle

The ancient castle was built on northern slope of a steep hill, several meters below its top, in immediate vicinity of the massif of Trzy Korony, located in Pieniny Mountains. The complex was small, due to lack of space, but placed in a spot which provided natural defence. The length of the defensive walls was 88 meters, and the walls were 1 meter thick, made from the local limestone rock. The gate was located in western part of the castle, below which cellars were built. According to Jan Długosz, during the disastrous Mongol invasion of Poland (1259), Prince Bolesław V the Chaste fled to the Pieniny Castle (spelled as Castro Pyeniny), together with his mother and wife Kinga of Poland. Historians however doubt Długosz, claiming that construction of the castle was not initiated until the 1280s.^[10] The complex guarded southern border of Lesser Poland, and probably was abandoned by the first half of the 14th century, to be destroyed in the 15th century (most likely in 1433, during a Hussite raid.

Niedzica – Dunajec Castle

Niedzica Castle

For more information see Niedzica Castle.

Czorsztyn – Czorsztyn Castle

Czorsztyn Castle

For more information see Czorsztyn Castle.

Szaflary – Szaflary Castle (does not exist)

The castle was located on a limestone rock, on the left bank of the White Dunajec. In the 13th and 14th centuries, together with the village of Szaflary, it belonged to the Cistercian abbey from Ludźmierz and Szczyrzyc. In 1380, it became royal property. In 1470–80, during the reign of Casimir IV Jagiellon, the castle was rented to a local nobleman Piotr Komorowski. Three years later, Szaflary was taken away from him, as a punishment for his support of Hungarian King Matthias Corvinus. Afterwards, the fortalitium Schaflari turned into a ruin.

The Szaflary Castle stood on a flat hilltop, with measurements of 20 by 30 meters. It was surrounded by a wall, which was in ca. 1474 strengthened by a rampart. Currently, a house stands in the spot where the complex once stood.^[11] All that remains of the castle are parts of the 14th century defensive wall, together with the rampart.

Gords along the Dunajec

The Dunajec is a river which flows along a hilly area, and on several hills, and along the valley there are remains of early Medieval gords. At Wojnicz, a 10th-century Slavic settlement once existed on a dry island a few meters above the swampy hollow. The settlement became the seat of a castellan, and turned into the town of Wojnicz. Other gords and settlements were located at:

Zawada Lanckorońska (9th - 11 th century, on a hill called Zamczysko)
Białawoda - remains of the Lusatian culture gord, located on the Białawodzka Góra Hill
Kurów - another Lusatian gord on the Kurowska Góra Hill
Marcinkowice - remains of a Lusatian gord, which in the 9th century was seized by the Slavs, on a hill called Grodzisko
Chełmiec - a Lusatian, later Slavic gord on the Chelm hill
Podegrodzie - two early Piast dynasty gords on two hills
Naszczowice - Lusatian and early Piast gord on the Zamczysko Hill
Maszkowice - Lusatian gord on the Góra Zyndrama Hill
Zabrzeż - Lusatian gord on the Babia Góra Hill