Simul climbing
Simul climbing, also known as climbing with a running belay,[1] is a climbing method or style where all the climbers climb at the same time while tied into the same rope. Protection is placed by the first member of the rope team and the last member removes the pieces of gear. The length of rope used during simul climbing varies but is often between 15–30 metres (50–100 ft). In most cases the climbing team maintain multiple pieces of protection between them to prevent a system failure if one of the pieces was to fail. Usually a belay device is not used. However the first climber may be belayed by the second until enough rope is out for the leader to avoid a ground fall. Similarly the leader may use a belay device as the second approaches a belay station to avoid the potential for a large fall.
Fall potential
The roles of the leader and second in simul climbing are very different than they are in free climbing. If the leader falls during free climbing the second is pulled up from their belays station. In simul climbing, if the leader falls the second is pulled up from wherever they are climbing. These two situations contain a similar level of danger.
In free climbing the second traditionally belays from a stationary belay position and is not in a position to fall. In simul climbing the second is actively climbing and can sustain a fall. If the second falls while simul climbing the leader catches the fall with their own body. This jolt has a high likelihood of pulling leader off the rock towards their last piece of gear. This sort of fall has the potential to be devastating for the leader. To avoid this possibility it's traditional to put the better climbers second so that they won't fall.
Variations
Simul climbing or variations of simul climbing are commonly used while speed climbing.
References
- ↑ Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, Swan Hill Press; 6th Revised edition (14 Oct 1997) ISBN 1-84037-001-7 ISBN 978-1840370010
