The True Cost

The True Cost

Theatrical release poster
Directed by Andrew Morgan
Produced by Michael Ross
Music by Duncan Blickenstaff
Edited by Michael Ross
Production
companies
Distributed by BullFrog Films
Release dates
  • May 15, 2015 (2015-05-15) (Cannes)
  • May 29, 2015 (2015-05-29) (United States)
Running time
 92 minutes
Country United States
Language English
Budget US$500,000[1]

The True Cost is a 2015 documentary film directed by Andrew Morgan that focuses on fast fashion. It discusses several aspects of the garment industry from production—mainly exploring the life of low-wage workers in developing countries—to its after-effects such as river and soil pollution, pesticide contamination, disease and death. Using an approach that looks at environmental, social and psychological aspects, it also examines consumerism and mass media, ultimately linking them to global capitalism. The documentary is a collage of several interviews with environmentalists, garment workers, factory owners, and people organizing fair trade companies or promoting sustainable clothing production.

Morgan's attention was drawn to the topic after the 2013 Savar building collapse, when a commercial building in Bangladesh named Rana Plaza toppled and killed over a thousand workers. Starting the project in October of that year, he traveled to thirteen countries to collect information and conduct interviews. The film was funded by Kickstarter and premiered at the 2015 Cannes Film Festival in early May 2015 before its release in select American and British theaters later that month. Critics have been both positive and dismissive, with reviews ranging from "vitally important documentary"[2] to "vague liberal agitprop".[3]

Content

In The True Cost, Morgan examines the garment industry—specifically the fast fashion business—[4] and links it to consumerism, globalization, capitalism, structural poverty, and oppression.[5][6] In the film, it is stated that in the 1960s, the American fashion industry produced 95% of the clothes its people wore, while now only 3% percent are produced in the United States, with the rest produced in developing countries.[7] Operating in countries such as Bangladesh, India, Cambodia, and China,[8] major brand manufacturers minimize costs and maximize profits by having companies in those countries competing against each other.[9] The international brands pressure the factory owners, threatening to close and move production to another country if the clothes are not cheap enough; the owners in turn pressure their workers and, as one owner says, "They're hampering me, I'm hampering my workers".[10]

According to Morgan, despite garment manufacturing being a three-trillion-dollar industry,[11] the working conditions in those countries are poor.[12] In addition to having to work in those conditions and live on low salaries, these workers have a difficult time demanding their rights; Bangladeshi workers in Dhaka may be beaten by their employers while Cambodians are shot by police.[4][13] In Dhaka, workers must work in hot and chemical-ridden environments and structurally unsound buildings. The film shows the events of the 2013 Savar building collapse when an eight-story commercial building named Rana Plaza collapsed.[3][4] Just prior to that, workers had been forced into the factory even though a crack was seen in the walls.[4]

The Rana Plaza collapse, an event that sparked Morgan's interest in making the film, is explored as an example of poor working conditions in developing countries.

The film shows how the demand for cotton in India has led to the planting of genetically modified (GM) cotton,[13] and how the monopoly inherent in its use by seed companies causes an increase in the price of cotton, leading to suicides among farmers who lose their land to these companies because they cannot pay the higher seed prices.[14] GM crops need more pesticides, causing environmental damage,[3] birth defects leading to mental and physical disabilities among the Punjab people,[4][15] and an increased rate of cancer.[14] The film claims that sometimes the companies that produce the pesticides are the same ones that produce the needed medications.[16] A similar scenario occurs in contaminated cotton fields in Texas, where pesticides are causing brain tumors.[9] The garment industry is the second-most-polluting industry the world, according to the film,[11] which is illustrated by leather tanneries pouring chromium into the Ganges River in Kanpur, India.[14][16]

In the film, the focus returns to America, where it looks at how media affects the desire of people—especially teenagers—to buy and create an identity focused on consumption.[3] This is borne out by a 500% worldwide increase in clothing consumption compared to the 1990s.[16] However, clothes are quickly disposed of; an average American wastes 82 lb (37 kg) of textiles a year.[17] Only 10% percent of donated clothes go to thrift shops;[18] the rest go to landfills, such as those in Port-au-Prince, Haiti.[17] Aside from weakening local industries by this constant disposal of clothes,[19] land and water are polluted because most apparel is made from non-biodegradable materials.[17]

Throughout the film, Morgan shows people who defend the low-cost prices such as Benjamin Powell of the Free Market Institute at Texas Tech University[1] and Kate Ball-Young, former sourcing manager of Joe Fresh.[9][12] Ball-Young says that, in comparison to more precarious alternative work, the fashion industry is a good choice for workers.[7][12] Powell argues sweatshops are "part of the very process that raises living standards and leads to better working conditions over time".[3] In contrast, the film shows a Texas organic cotton farmer, eco fashion activist Livia Firth and her sustainability-focused consulting firm,[13][20] and people who manage fair trade clothing companies, such as animal-rights activist Stella McCartney,[20] People Tree's Safia Minney, Redress's Christina Dean, and Patagonia's Vincent Stanley.[3][21][22]

Other individuals interviewed and appearing in the film include: television personalities Stephen Colbert and John Oliver,[7] economist Richard D. Wolff,[3] John Hilary of the charity War on Want,[10] professor of media studies Mark Crispin Miller,[3] psychologist Tim Kasser,[23] physician Pritpal Singh,[24] and environmentalists Rick Ridgeway[25] and Vandana Shiva.[26]

Production

The documentary's budget of US$500,000 was obtained through individual investors and Kickstarter, with Kickstarter crowd funders contributing US$76,546. Morgan refused to accept money from companies, non-governmental organizations, and foundations to keep the project "autonomous".[1][27] During a two-year period beginning in October 2013,[27] Morgan traveled to twenty-five cities in thirteen countries, where he collected information and conducted interviews.[25][28] Some of the interviews were made possible through the efforts of executive producer Livia Firth, who introduced Morgan to eco fashion.[29] Morgan had planned to interview Firth, but when she learned about the project she became interested in it and recommended people for him to talk to. Firth became heavily involved with the project, and after completing several interviews with her, Morgan showed Firth the final cut and made her an executive producer for the film.[30] He had also planned to conduct interviews with 25 "major" brands, but none of them agreed to appear in the film.[1]

With no knowledge of the fashion industry, Morgan decided to make a film on the topic after being shocked by the news of the collapse of Rana Plaza.[5] After spending several days getting information, and discovering the industry's human rights violations and "staggering environmental impacts", he was sure he had to make the film.[31] He had also previously had an appreciation for the genre, saying he was "actually fascinated by those [fashion] films that follow one person".[5] Like Morgan a non-connoisseur of fashion, executive producer and eco activist Lucy Siegle said that she does not like such films as they are usually limited to exploring the aesthetic aspects of the industry. It is The True Cost differential in her opinion; it "goes there and then some‍—‌it unravels the grim, gritty, global supply chain of fast fashion".[5] Nevertheless, the film purposely does not give viewers a clear answer on how to solve the problems as there are "no straightforward answers". Morgan commented, "I'm probably most proud that we avoided easy answers and instead chose to trust people to both feel and think deeply about the issues raised."[5]

“ This doesn't have to be liberal versus pro-business debate. What it has to become is an honest debate. This isn't about 'Let's throw the system out the window.' I'm not against the idea of competition and profit and businesses. ... Those are really good forces. We can channel those forces in a more humane and more sustainable way. It's very similar to what's happened with the food movement. A lot of it starts with customer demand. ”
— Andrew Morgan, director[1]

Regarding the ultimate objectives behind the making of the film, Morgan said he was not trying to blame just a single company[32] nor the fast fashion industry as "it did not invent a very irresponsible way of manufacturing, it did not invent overmarketing the consumption of things."[4] The director said the film was intended to be a caution on the "incessant consumption of mediocre stuff" and an incentive to view shopping as something more than a hobby,[14] adding that buying is "a moral act and there is a chain reaction of consequences".[27] He commented he was not trying to be "anti-business or anti-market" but was just reaffirming basic human rights and showing the limits of natural resources.[18]

Morgan said his main hope for the film was that it would spark a debate on the topic and make people "more mindful and choose things that support life and not take it away."[27] Morgan thought he had included a good number of counter-examples of how people can make a difference, so the film does not simply show "the destructive ways this industry operates but also the opportunity to reinvent it"[28] through "small choices [that] actually impact those [big problems]."[16] Ultimately, he considered his film an introduction to the topic that was able to connect several elements, any one of which would be worth being covered in a film.[16]

Release and response

To coincide with Fashion Revolution Day, which seeks transparency in clothes production, the trailer of The True Cost was released on April 24, 2015.[33] It premiered at the 2015 Cannes Film Festival on May 15,[27] when film producer Harvey Weinstein said, "This movie's going to shock the fashion world".[29] A week before the official release, the crowd funders received personal links to allow them watch the film.[27] It was released on May 29 through iTunes, video on demand services, DVD, Blu-Ray, and in select theaters in Los Angeles, New York, and London,[1][18] and has since been translated into 19 languages.[1] After its release, companies that were subjects of the film, including H&M and Zara, defended themselves in a CNBC article.[4] The film has been subject to dissonant reviews that ranged from extremely positive to very dismissive. Aggregator site Rotten Tomatoes says there were five positive reviews and three negative reviews‍—‌which indicates that 63% of critics were favorable‍—‌and that it received an average score of 6.3.[34] Based on one positive, two mixed, and one negative review, Metacritic assigns an average score of 46 out of 100.[35] It also received an Environmental Media Awards nomination for Best Documentary Film.[36]

The New York Times reviewer Jeannette Catsoulis praised it for avoiding the dichotomy of "corporate greed versus environmental well-being", adding that instead of being an exposé, "Under the gentle, humane investigations of its director, what emerges most strongly is a portrait of exploitation that ought to make us more nauseated than elated over those $20 jeans".[12] Tamsin Blanchard of the Daily Telegraph called it a work that will "do for the fast fashion business what Food Inc did for fast food".[27] The Hollywood Reporter's Frank Scheck commended it for approaching an issue often "untouched by major news organizations".[7] He said the film was "more despair-inducing than instructive", but was optimistic about its possible impact on the fashion culture, citing the effect that films such as Super Size Me and Fast Food Nation had on the fast food industry.[7] Carson Quiros of Paste also compared it to the former film.[9] David Noh of Film Journal International called it a "vitally important documentary" that contains scenes that "are enough to make you never want to go shopping again".[2] Gabrielle Wilson of MTV stated it is "hard to swallow but never feels preach-y or like a barrage of depressive factoids" and will empower viewers to change their shopping habits.[17] Casey Jarman said she was disappointed by "the only solution offered: eliminating global capitalism"; however, ultimately, she wrote for Willamette Week that it is a "compelling film, which is, above all else, a badly needed conversation-starter".[37]

Alan Scherstuhl wrote a very critical piece for The Village Voice; he called the film predictable and repetitive, and said it contained several facts that have been clearly "common knowledge for years".[3] Scherstuhl said it is scattershot, "a litany of Things We Can All Agree Are Bad", but ultimately jumps between several topics‍—‌without sufficient detail, in his opinion‍—‌but comes to no conclusion or alternative.[3] Scherstuhl said not even common people would have their beliefs challenged and that they would "dismiss it as the vague liberal agitprop that it is".[3] Similarly, while saying the film discusses important issues, both Genevieve Koski of The Dissolve and Jennie Kermode of Eye for Film said it deals with several themes quickly but does not expand upon any of them.[13][19] Koski said, "The True Cost is methodical to a fault",[13] while Kermode said it is "a good starting point" on the topic.[19] Fashion critic Vanessa Friedman said it has an "easy-to-swallow accessibility" but that it "oversimplifies" some aspects of the industry. In addition to commenting on the lack of attribution for "lots of eye-popping statements", she said, "trying to do everything, he skirted a lot of things".[11] The Los Angeles Times's Martin Tsai criticized Morgan for interviewing his own executive producers, saying "the effects of fertilizers ... don't appear quite as tangible", and faulted Morgan for not exploring "retailer markups that could have gone toward improving sweatshop conditions instead of profit margins", but appreciated that he had interviewed people with both pro and con views.[26] Lizzie Crocker of The Daily Beast said Morgan had socialist views and that the film implies he wants to go back to the 1960s. She also criticized some interviewees, such as Miller, whom she called a "conspiracy theorist", and Wolff, whom she called a "Marxist idealist". Crocker was dismissive of the film, saying, "the film loses focus and credibility, criticizing not just the fashion industry but the global capitalist system that supports it".[24]

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Cheng, Andria (May 29, 2015). "This movie may change how you buy clothes". MarketWatch. Dow Jones & Company. Archived from the original on February 2, 2016. Retrieved January 5, 2016.
  2. 1 2 Noh, David (May 29, 2015). "Film Review: The True Cost". Film Journal International. Prometheus Global Media. Archived from the original on June 19, 2016. Retrieved January 4, 2016.
  3. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Scherstuhl, Alan (May 27, 2015). "The True Cost Fumbles Its Attack on the Clothing Industry". The Village Voice. Voice Media Group. Archived from the original on October 21, 2015. Retrieved October 20, 2015.
  4. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Gustafson, Krystina (May 29, 2015). "'The True Cost' attacks the business of fast fashion". CNBC. Archived from the original on June 19, 2016. Retrieved October 25, 2015.
  5. 1 2 3 4 5 Siegle, Lucy (June 4, 2015). "Why not all fashion documentaries should be pretty". The Guardian. Archived from the original on June 19, 2016. Retrieved October 24, 2015.
  6. ↑ Mohan, Marc (May 29, 2015). "'The True Cost'of fashion, 'Who Is Gil Scott-Heron?,' and 'Johnny Guitar': Indie & art house picks". OregonLive.com. Advance Digital. Archived from the original on June 19, 2016. Retrieved January 4, 2016.
  7. 1 2 3 4 5 Scheck, Frank (June 1, 2015). "'The True Cost': Film Review". The Hollywood Reporter. Prometheus Global Media. Archived from the original on June 19, 2016. Retrieved October 25, 2015.
  8. ↑ Jones, Dolly (May 28, 2015). "Livia Firth: The True Cost". Vogue. Condé Nast. Archived from the original on June 20, 2016. Retrieved January 4, 2016.
  9. 1 2 3 4 Quiros, Carson (June 3, 2015). "The True Cost is for Fast Fashion what Supersize Me Was for Fast Food". Paste. Wolfgang's Vault. Archived from the original on June 20, 2016. Retrieved January 4, 2016.
  10. 1 2 Kosin, Julie (May 29, 2015). "'The True Cost' Seeks to Expose the Consequences of Fast Fashion". Harper's Bazaar. Hearst Digital Media. Archived from the original on Jun 20, 2016. Retrieved January 5, 2016.
  11. 1 2 3 Friedman, Vanessa (May 28, 2015). "'The True Cost,' a Different Kind of Fashion Documentary". The New York Times. Archived from the original on June 20, 2016. Retrieved October 25, 2015.
  12. 1 2 3 4 Catsoulis, Jeannette (May 28, 2015). "Review: 'The True Cost' Investigates High Price of Fashion Bargains". The New York Times. Archived from the original on June 20, 2016. Retrieved October 25, 2015.
  13. 1 2 3 4 5 Koski, Genevieve (May 26, 2015). "The True Cost". The Dissolve. Pitchfork Media. Archived from the original on March 4, 2016. Retrieved January 4, 2016.
  14. 1 2 3 4 Fleming, Olivia (May 27, 2015). "Is Your $40 Skirt Hurting the Environment?". Elle. Hearst Digital Media. Archived from the original on June 20, 2016. Retrieved January 4, 2016.
  15. ↑ Unger, Simone (July 6, 2015). "Der wahre Preis unserer Kleidung" [The true cost of our clothing]. Kultur Journal (in German). Norddeutscher Rundfunk. Archived from the original on April 27, 2016. Retrieved January 5, 2016.
  16. 1 2 3 4 5 Titze, Anne-Katrin (July 5, 2015). "Dressed to kill". Eye for Film. Archived from the original on June 20, 2016. Retrieved January 5, 2016.
  17. 1 2 3 4 Wilson, Gabrielle (May 29, 2015). "Must-Watch: 'The True Cost' Shines A Light On The Human Price Of Your Bargain Shopping". MTV. Viacom. Archived from the original on June 30, 2015. Retrieved January 5, 2016.
  18. 1 2 3 Kawakami, Robin (May 29, 2015). "Documentary Exposes Hidden Costs of $8 Jeans". The Wall Street Journal. Retrieved January 4, 2016.
  19. 1 2 3 Kermode, Jennie (May 20, 2015). "The True Cost (2015) Film Review". Eye for Film. Retrieved January 4, 2016.
  20. 1 2 Ross, Robert J. S. (December 10, 2015). "The High Toll of Fast Fashion". Dissent. University of Pennsylvania Press. Retrieved January 5, 2016.
  21. ↑ Chan, Stephanie (June 2, 2015). "'The True Cost' Dives Into the Dark Side of Fast Fashion". The Hollywood Reporter. Prometheus Global Media. Retrieved January 5, 2016.
  22. ↑ "Design og arkitektur på stort lerret: The True Cost" [Design and architecture on the big screen: The True Cost]. Doga.no (in Norwegian). Norsk design- og arkitektursenter. November 18, 2015. Retrieved January 5, 2016.
  23. ↑ Ballesteros, María (August 21, 2015). "Este es el coste real de la ropa que te pones" [This is the true cost of the clothing you wear]. El País (in Spanish). PRISA. Retrieved January 5, 2015.
  24. 1 2 Crocker, Lizzie (May 26, 2015). "There Are No Easy Answers to Fashion's Cruelty". The Daily Beast. IAC. Retrieved January 5, 2016.
  25. 1 2 Sagansky, Gillian (May 19, 2015). "Livia Firth Brings Environmental Awareness to Cannes". W Magazine. Condé Nast. Retrieved October 25, 2015.
  26. 1 2 Tsai, Martin (May 28, 2015). "'The True Cost' exposes hidden cost of cute, cheap fashions". Los Angeles Times. Tribune Publishing. Retrieved January 4, 2016.
  27. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Blanchard, Tamsin (June 2, 2015). "The True Cost: new documentary spotlights the impact of fast fashion". The Daily Telegraph. Telegraph Media Group. Retrieved October 25, 2015.
  28. 1 2 Morgan, Andrew (April 24, 2015). "A New Future For Fashion". The Huffington Post. AOL. Retrieved January 5, 2016.
  29. 1 2 Mohr, Ian (May 15, 2015). "Colin Firth's wife takes on fashion's dark side". Page Six. Retrieved October 25, 2015.
  30. ↑ Rother, Nina E. (March 6, 2015). "Uncovering The True Cost of Fast Fashion With Livia Firth in Cannes". The Huffington Post. AOL. Retrieved January 4, 2016.
  31. ↑ "From Cannes: "The True Cost" of Fast Fashion". The Fashion Law. May 21, 2015. Retrieved October 25, 2015.
  32. ↑ Lee, Benjamin (May 19, 2015). "Livia Firth: the fashion industry is 'so messed up'". The Guardian. Retrieved October 25, 2015.
  33. ↑ Spedding, Emma (April 24, 2015). "Fashion Revolution Day: Watch The Trailer For Powerful Documentary 'The True Cost'". Grazia UK. Bauer Lifestyle. Retrieved January 5, 2016.
  34. ↑ "The True Cost (2015)". Rotten Tomatoes. Flixster. Retrieved March 15, 2016.
  35. ↑ "The True Cost Reviews". Metacritic. CBS Interactive. Retrieved October 24, 2014.
  36. ↑ "'Mad Max: Fury Road,' 'Interstellar,' 'Virunga' Among Environmental Media Awards Nominees". The Hollywood Reporter. Prometheus Global Media. September 2, 2015. Retrieved October 25, 2015.
  37. ↑ Spitz, Enid (November 26, 2015). "Silver Screening: Movies to Watch Nov. 25-Dec. 1". Willamette Week. City of Roses Newspapers. Retrieved January 4, 2016.
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