Groves classification system

The Groves Classification is a numbering system to enable the shape of any academic gown or hood to be easily described and identified. It was devised by Nicholas Groves to establish a common terminology for hoods and gown to remedy the situation of individual universities using differing terms to describe the same item. As such it is used in same manner as an heraldic blazon whereby a textual description enables a coat of arms to be drawn. The system was first described in the Burgon Society's annual in 2001 and adopted as standard by robe makers and scholars of academic dress.^[1]

Classes

The major classes of academic hoods.

	Cape	Cowl	Liripipe
Full
Simple
Aberdeen

The original Groves Classification included a standardization for shapes and patterns of hoods and gowns worn by graduates and undergraduates. Further information was given regarding the use of different fabrics and standardization of colors, but the focus was placed on gowns and hoods which are explained further below.^[1]

The Classification undergoes periodic revision as new hood and gown patterns emerge.

Hoods

Hoods in the Classification are divided into three different types as summarised in the table below. Unlike the gowns and robes, these are based on the shape of the hood rather than the degrees for which they are worn.

• [f] full shape hoods are those that have a cape, a cowl and a liripipe.
• [s] simple shape hoods have only a cowl and a liripipe.
• [a] Aberdeen shape hoods have only a cape and a vestigial cowl.

Code number	Name	Pattern Rear view.            Flat view	Notes
Full shape hoods
[f1]	Cambridge		Cape with square corners.
[f2]	Dublin		As [f1] but the liripipe is curved at the inner corner.
[f3]	London		As [f1] but the cape corners are rounded.
[f4]	Durham Doctors		Used for doctoral degrees at the University of Durham. As [f7] but the liripipe is cut at a 45 degree angle and the cowl is slanted downwards.
[f5]	Oxford Full		Used for doctoral degrees at the University of Oxford. As [f7] but larger and with a narrow squared 'slot' between the liripipe edge and the cape.
[f6]	Durham BA		Traditional shape for BA degrees at the University of Durham. As for [f7] but with a large, semi-circular cape, and the space between the cape and liripipe is cut in a quadrant arc. The liripipe is sewn on separately.
[f7]	Durham BSc		As [f3] but the bottom of the cape has a rounded, semi-circular edge.
[f8]	Edinburgh Full
[f9]	Glasgow		Larger version of [f1], with a longer cape and a long narrow liripipe. Typically made with a wide neckband.
[f10]	St Andrews
[f11]	Warham Guild
[f12]	King's Full		Designed by Dame Vivienne Westwood in 2008 and features two long (4') streamers which serve as gown facings. There is no neckband, and the hood is held in place by a button fixed to the each shoulder of the gown. Owing to its unique shape the hood cannot be folded flat.
[f13]	UMIST
[f14]	ICC Doctors
[f15]	Toronto
Simple shape hoods
[s1]	Oxford Simple
[s2]	Oxford Burgon
[s3]	Belfast
[s4]	Edinburgh		As for [f8] with the cape portion removed.
[s5]	Wales
[s6]	Leicester Bachelors
[s7]	Leeds
[s8]	Sussex
[s9]	Victoria
[s10]	Aston
[s11]	Glasgow Caledonian
[s12]	King's Simple
Aberdeen shaped hoods
[a1]	CNAA
[a2]	Leicester Masters
[a3]	Kent
[a4]	East Anglia
[a5]	Leicester Doctors
[a6]	Dundee
[a7]	Aberdeen

Gowns

Gowns in the Groves system are divided into three classes. These generally follow the shapes associated with each different academic degree in the British educational system.

• [b] bachelor's gowns typically have large open sleeves
• [m] master's gowns typically have long closed sleeves with armhole at elbow level
• [d] doctor's robes vary in shape widely between institutions and are all classed as [d].

Bachelors

Code	Example	Notes
Bachelors gowns
[b1]	Basic bachelor	plain open sleeves, point reaching knee
[b2]	Cambridge BA	sleeve has slit in foream seam
[b3]	Cambridge MB	front of sleeve has foldback and cord and button
[b4]	London BA	front of sleeve is pleated and held by cord and button
[b5]	Durham BA	lower 8" of forearm seam left open, and held by button and loop
[b6]	Wales BA	lower 6" of forearm seam left open and folded back, held by 2 buttons, with third button on seam in middle
[b7]	Bath BA	as [b5], but with button at top of slit
[b8]	Oxford BA	as [b1], but sleeves reach hem of gown
[b9]	Belfast BA	bell sleeve, pleated as [b4]
[b10]	Dublin BA	as [b1], but sleeves much smaller
[b11]	Reading BA	as [b2], but sleeve point is rounded off
[b12]	Sussex BA	bag sleeve with small armhole

Masters

Sleeve pattern
Degree	Oxford MA	Cambridge MA	Dublin MA	Wales MA	London MA	Victoria MA	Lampeter BD	Leicester MA	Bristol MA
Code number	[m1]	[m2]	[m3]	[m4]	[m5]	[m6]	[m7]	[m8]	[m9]
Basic Master	Lancaster MA	Scottish MA	Not used	Open	Warwick MA	Bath MA	Sussex MA	Manchester MA	King's MA
[m10]	[m11]	[m12]	[m13]	[m14]	[m15]	[m16]	[m17]	[m18]	[m19]

Doctors

Code	Example	Notes
Doctors/Special gowns
[d1]	Cambridge doctors	wide open sleeves, similar to [b1], with the wrist turned back and held with a cord and button
[d2]	Oxford doctors	bell sleeves
[d3]	Cambridge MusD	small bell sleeves with cuff
[d4]	Cambridge LL.D undress	flap-collar (QC's) gown
[d5]	Oxford convocation habit	sleeveless habit closed with two buttons at the front
[d6]	Sussex doctors	MA-style sleeve with vertical slit, base hollowed into B shape
[d7]	Aston	narrow sleeves
[d8]	Cambridge DD undress	bell sleeves gathered at wrist

Headwear

Code	Example	Notes
[h1]	Mortarboard	a square board attached to a skull cap, often with a button and tassel
[h2]	Tudor bonnet	a round soft hat with brim, often with a cord and tassels
[h3]	John Knox cap	a square soft cap
[h4]	Bishop Andrewes cap	like [h1] but soft and with a silk tuff in lieu of button and tassel
[h5]	Oxford ladies' cap	a soft square cap with a flap at the back and held up with two buttons
[h6]	Sussex pileus	a round cylindrical cap with a covered button on the top
[h7]	Leicester doctoral cap	a modified biretta
[h8]	UEA BA	a skull cap with upturned brim (no longer used)
[h9]	UEA MA	a skull cap with a triangular structure on top (no longer used)

Changes

The Groves classification system was first published in 2001. Since that time, it has been adapted and changed to include newly devised academic dress and revisions of existing schemes.^[1] The Burgon Society maintains a comprehensive listing of system shapes on its website. In addition to those included above, the current list classifies undergraduate gowns in use throughout the United Kingdom and academic headwear.^[2]

References

1. Groves, Nicholas (2001), "Towards a Standard Terminology for Describing Academic Dress" (PDF), The Burgon Society Annual, 1: 9–12.
2. "The Design of Academical Dress". The Burgon Society.