Vernon Tejas

Vernon Tejas
Born 16 March 1963
Portland, Oregon
Nationality American
Occupation Mountain guide and climber
Known for Summiting the Seven Summits in world record time.
Awards Alaska Sports Hall of Fame (2012)

Vernon Tejas is an American mountain climber and mountain guide. He is the current world record holder in the amount of time taken to summit all of the Seven Summits consecutively, having also previously held the same record. He was also the first person to solo summit several of the world's tallest peaks. Tejas was named one of the top fifty Alaskan athletes of the twentieth century by Sports Illustrated in 2002.[1] In 2012, he was elected to the Alaska Sports Hall of Fame. Tejas plays the harmonica and guitar. He currently resides in Greenwich Village, New York.

Life and times

Vernon Tejas was born on 16 March 1953 at Portland, Oregon, the son of Phillip Sand Hansel and Janice Muetzel Hansel. Tejas was born Vernon Edward Hansel and later changed his name to Vernon Tejas.

Career

From Oregon, Tejas headed north ans ended up in Alaska. He went to work for Alaska Telecom, and enjoyed tower work where he built and maintained communication towers on North Slope in Alaska. He is now with Alpine Ascents International as a senior international high altitude alpine mountain guide.[2]

Mountain climbing

Tejas became a mountain guide and mountain rescuer operating in the Andes, Himalayas, the Alaska Range, and Antarctica during the 1980s.[3] In 1981, he was part of the team that summited Mount Hunter in the winter season for the first time.

In the autumn of 1982, Tejas broke his ankle while rock climbing in Yosemite. The doctors had to wait a week for the swelling to subside before setting the fracture with a cast. The stress the ankle was subjected to over the years took its toll. The pursuits of a mountaineer and a high altitude alpine mountain guide had destroyed the cartilage in between the subtalar joint. In 2010, S. Robert Rozbruch, M.D. of the Hospital for Special Surgery in New York utilized the Ilizarov technique and injected stem cells into the fixated subtalar joint to stimulate the growth of cartilage. The procedure is known as ankle distraction.[4][5][6][7]

In 1986, he led the first winter summiting of Mount Logan. Around this time he also made several summits of Mount Aconcagua, two of which led to descents to the base camp via a mountain bike, and then a paraglider, both of which he took to the peak himself along the climb.[8] In 1988 he became the first person to paraglide from the Vinson Massif in Antarctica,[9] and later became the first man to solo ascend the mountain.[1] He has also paraglided from the summit of Mount Elbrus.

In 1988, Tejas became the first person to successfully solo climb Mount McKinley (now named Mount Denali), during the winter season.[10][11] He had previously summited the peak several times as a mountain guide.[12][13][14] In order to prevent becoming lost on the climb, he used an aluminum ladder as a part of his safety equipment, so that he would not fall into a crevasse.[3] In 2011, he recorded his fiftieth summiting of the mountain.[8] He has also summited the northern-most peak in the world, Helvetia Tinde.[15][16] [17]

In 1989, he began guiding for Alpine Ascents International.[18]

In 1992, Tejas was part of the team that measured the exact height of Mount Everest, and was the team member that planted the prism pole at the top of the mountain so that lasers could be used to measure the exact altitude.[19] On 12 May 1992, Tejas, Todd Burleson and Peter Athans placed laser prisms from Bradford Washburn on the summit of Mount Everest as part of a study to determine the height.[20][21][22][23]

In 1994, Tejas helped guide Norman D. Vaughan up his namesake Antarctic mountain Mount Vaughan (named for his aid of Richard Byrd in Byrd’s 1928 Antarctic expedition) in the days leading up to Norman Vaughan’s 89th birthday.[24]

In 2010, Tejas set the world record for the fastest period in which a person has climbed all seven of the world’s highest mountain summits, at 134 days.[25][26] He is also the only person to have summited all seven on at least ten separate occasions, and has climbed all seven twice within a year.[1] He had previously held the record in 2005 at 187 days. During the period of the new record, he also scaled the Carstensz Pyramid in New Guinea.[27]

Significant ascents

Aconcagua, Cerro 6,959 m, 22,831 ft. Also known as the “Sentinel of Stone,” its original name in Quechua language. Aconcagua was conquesred in 1897 by Swiss guide Matthias Zurbriggen. Located near the Argentinean-Chilean border, this is the world’s highest mountain outside of the Himalayas, the South American highpoint. Although it is not a volcano, it is of volcanic origin. The summit ridge, between the north, or main peak, and the south peak, 6,930 m, 22,736 ft, is called the Cresta Guanaco. The normal route is located in the south and circles to the west side of the mountain, then ascends the northwest ridge; it is reached by a three-week-long trek through the lower Andes. It is a surprisingly easy climb, if one adapts quickly to high altitude: a strong climber, Vern Tejas, hauled a mountain bike up to the summit and proceeded to go down the mountain on this most unlikely equipage!

Greenland and Helvetia Tinde

In 2001, a nine person team on the Return To The Top Of The World Expedition (RTOW2001) landed at Frigg Fjord. The group traversed the peninsula to the north, and made their way up the Syd Glacier, then crossed the Polkorridoren, and proceeded down the Nord Glacier. As the team crossed, five climbers: John Jancik, Joe Sears, Vernon Tejas, Ken Zerbst, and Steve Gardiner made the second ascent of Helvetia Tinde on 17 July 2001 via a new route up the east ridge. In 1969, the British Joint Services Expedition first climbed the 1920 meter summit of Helvetia Tinde. Helvetia Tinde is the highest peak in the most northerly mountain range on Earth, a mere 750 km from the geographic North Pole. On 18 July 2001, all nine team members: David Baker, Terri Baker, John Jancik, Jim McCrain, Jim Schaefer, Joe Sears, Vernon Tejas, Ken Zerbst, and Steve Gardiner made the first ascent of the highest as yet not climbed peak in the norther most mountain range on Earth. On reaching the north coast, the team recorded altitudes of summits, altitudes of saddles, and GPS readings for 14 peaks. On 23 July 2001, a team crossed the sea ice at Sands Fjord to make first ascents of several peaks on Cape Christian IV. On 25 July 2001, Sears, Tejas, and Gardiner climbed additional peaks in the area that included Peak 6. The whole team continued east along the coast to Cape Morris Jesup, and met up with their pilot and airplane to return to the United States. The team’s data was submitted to the appropriate experts in Denmark and the United States. The results indicated that Peak 6, at 83°, 36.427' north, is the summit of the most northern mountain on Earth.[31]

Significant explorations

Moon-Regan TransAntarctic Expedition

Awards & recognition

Vernon Tejas (USA) set a new speed record of the Seven Summits following the combined Kosciuszko and Carstensz lists of summits. Tejas began his record attempt with Vinson Massif on 18 January 2010 and after ascents on Aconcagua, Carstensz Pyramid, Kosciuszko, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus and Everest, reached the top of the last summit, Mt. McKinley on 31 May 2010.

Certifications

Scientific contributions

Endorsements and sponsors

In popular media

Photograph credits

References

  1. 1 2 3 https://www.alpineascents.com/guides/vern-tejas/
  2. Schmuland, Arlene, Damron, Marty, and Sinnott, Jeffrey. (2010). Guide to the Vern Tejas papers, 1971-2003. Vern Tejas papers. Archives and Special Collections. Consortium Library. University of Alaska, Anchorage, Alaska.
  3. 1 2 https://books.google.ca/books?id=9rzCCQAAQBAJ&pg=PT148
  4. Editor. (11 November 2010). The New Procedure Giving More Mobility. Hospital for Special Surgery. New York, New York.
  5. Tellisi N, Fragomen AT, Kleinman D, O’Malley MJ, Rozbruch SR. (2009). Joint Preservation of the Osteoarthritic Ankle Using Distraction Arthroplasty. Foot and Ankle International. 30: 318-325.
  6. Bernstein M, Reidler J, Fragomen AT, Rozbruch SR. (2016). Ankle Distraction Arthroplasty: Indications, Technique, and Outcomes. Accepted to Journal of the American Academy of Orthopaedic Surgeons.
  7. Hamdy, R. C., Bernstein, M., Fragomen, A. T., & Rozbruch, S. R. (2016). What’s New in Limb Lengthening and Deformity Correction. Journal of Bone & Joint Surgery, American edition. 98(16): 1408-1415.
  8. 1 2 https://books.google.ca/books?id=o7nCCQAAQBAJ&pg=PT127
  9. https://books.google.ca/books?id=fRJtB2MNdJMC&pg=PA9
  10. Foster, David. (22 May 1988). Solo Trek to Top of Mt. McKinley: Life Is Fuller for Climber Who Risked Death. Los Angeles Times'.
  11. Whalley, Ted. (1988). Canadian Arctic and Alaska 1988. Area Notes. The Alpine Journal.
  12. 1 2 Freedman, Lew. (1 October 1990). Dangerous Steps. Vernon Tejas and the Solo Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley. Stackpole Books. Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. ISBN 0811723410.
  13. Yates, J. (1991). The 1989 Mt. Mckinley, Alaska, GPS Expedition. Technical papers. 280. American Congress on Surveying and Mapping.
  14. Yates, J. F. (1991). AeroMap US, Inc. In Technical Papers, 1991. ACSM-ASPRS Annual Convention (p. 280). American Congress on Surveying and Mapping.
  15. Howard, Tom. (19 July 2003). On top of the world. Billings Gazette. Billings, Montana.
  16. Ivanescu, Liviu. (7 June 2005). Arctic Astronomy. European Southern Observatory.
  17. https://books.google.ca/books?id=E50bIVG3Q5QC&pg=RA1-PA286
  18. http://www.mountainzone.com/climbing/tejas/
  19. https://books.google.ca/books?id=PbzCCQAAQBAJ&pg=PT186
  20. 1 2 Angus-Leppan, P. V. (1982). The Height of Mount Everest. Survey Review. 26(206): 367-385.
  21. 1 2 Ward, Michael. (1995). The Height of Mount Everest. Alpine Journal.
  22. 1 2 Washburn, B. (1999). New official height of Everest. National Geographic. 11, 76.
  23. 1 2 Washburn, Bradford, & Freedman, Lew. (2013). Bradford Washburn, An Extraordinary Life: The Autobiography of a Mountaineering Icon. Graphic Arts Books.
  24. https://books.google.ca/books?id=P9-DG11ncGkC&pg=PA79
  25. https://books.google.ca/books?id=fiSgyRhsUrgC&pg=PA18
  26. Hamill, Mark. (4 May 2012). Climbing The Seven Summits. A Comprehensive Guide To The Continents' Highest Peaks. Mountaineers Books. 978-1-59485-648-8. 352 pages.
  27. http://www.adn.com/alaska-news/article/climber-tejas-reclaims-seven-summits-record-age-57/2010/06/04/
  28. Walker, Spike. (2002). Alaska: Tales of Adventure from the Last Frontier. Macmillan.
  29. Sherwonit, B. (2013). To the Top of Denali: Climbing Adventures on North America's Highest Peak. Graphic Arts Books.
  30. Hartemann, F., & Hauptman, R. (2005). The Mountain Encyclopedia: An A to Z Compendium of Over 2,250 Terms, Concepts, Ideas, and People. Taylor Trade Publishing.
  31. 1 2 Gardiner, Steve. (2002). North America, Greenland, North Peary Land, First Ascents, a Traverse of the Peninsula and Confirmation of the World's Most Northerly Peak. Climbs and Expeditions. AAJ. The American Alpine Journal. 44(76): 286.
  32. Wong, Sam. (17 December 2010). Scientific expedition completes first double Antarctic crossing in vehicles. News and Events. Imperial College London.
  33. Thompson, Ray. (17 October 2011). Moon Regan Expedition One Year On. Graduate School Guest Lecture. Graduate School. Imperial College London.
  34. Editor. (August 2016). Fastest time to climb the Seven Summits including Carstensz (male). Guinness World Records 2016 Edition. London, England.
  35. Editor. (2016). Vernon E. Tejas. Lifetime member. The American Alpine Club. Golden, Colorado.
  36. Freedman, Lew. (2011). Vern Tejas. The Mountaineer. Alaska Sports Hall of Fame. Anchorage, Alaska.
  37. Stolpe, Klas. (7 December 2011). Vern Tejas. Gold Medal Tournament in Hall of Fame. Juneau Empire. Juneau, Alaska.
  38. Hill, Erik. (7 December 2011). Alaska Sports Hall of Fame. Anchorage Daily News. Anchorage, Alaska.
  39. Waterman, J. (1991). Surviving Denali: A Study of Accidents on Mount McKinley, 1903-1990. The Mountaineers Books.
  40. Editor. (27 December 1999). The 50 Greatest Sports Figures From Alaska. Sports Illustrated.
  41. Riffenburgh, Beau. (2007). Adventures in Antarctica article. History of Adventure Tourism. Modern Adventurers. Encyclopedia of the Antarctic (Vol. 1). Taylor & Francis.
  42. Alaska Mountain Rescue
  43. American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education
  44. Scott, D., Rycroft, J. A., Aspen, J., Chapman, C., & Brown, B. (2004). The effect of drinking tea at high altitude on hydration status and mood. European journal of applied physiology. 91(4): 493-498.
  45. Boak, Dick. (July 2003). New “Little Martin” Debuts Atop Denali. The Sounding Board. The Martin Guitar Company. Nazareth, Pennsylvania. 15(July 2003): 6-7.
  46. Carolyn K. Robinson, producer, & Steven L. Rychetnik, director. (2001). Vern Tejas, Host. Tasting Alaska. Food Network. SprocketHeads / Food Network.
  47. Clark, Liesl. (1994). Vern Tejas, talent. Surviving Denali. ESPN TV Special. ESPN.
  48. Editor. (3 December 2013). Vern Tejas. The Mountaineers. Ultimate Survival Alaska. National Geographic Channel. National Geographic Society.
  49. Blumenfeld, Jeff. (17 June 2009). You Want To Go Where?: How to Get Someone to Pay for the Trip of Your Dreams. Skyhorse Publishing. ISBN 1602396477.

Further reading

External links

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